Reminiscing

[HEPZIBAH]

Having commented about the Emilio Hotel in another thread, it got me to reminiscing further about my early visits to Luxor.

One of the things I recall is being shown around by a local, struggling to keep up with their pace because I had difficulty coping with the high kerb stones. This was in the general Luxor Temple and Souk area walking from the Corniche

I enjoyed standing at night on the little balcony outside my room, looking down on the busy street, watching all the calleches amassing at the corner down to the right as they turned around to go back down by the side of the temple, hoping that they would pick up a fare at that stage. The traffic noise wasn't a deterrent to staying there but in a strange way was a comfort. You knew that day or night people were there, going about their busy lives. It was still somehow part of the 'foreign exotic fairy tale' of days gone by.
As the area was gradually re-developed, or should I say fairly regularly (or so it seemed) re-developed, it lost much of it's charm to me as a visitor. I missed being able to cut through from the ferry, past the pottery seller and the old police station to the hotel. I missed the comfort of the traffic noise, yes it was still there, but not the same once the new road was put in place. I did not miss the high kerbs though which, although many are still there they thankfully seem fewer, or shall we say the pavements were slightly more pedestrian friendly (at least last time I was there).

What fond thoughts have you got from your earlier visits to Luxor? Between us, we must have a myriad of memories of the various places that we have encountered over the years. We may all share some very similar memories, yet all will be quite personal too.

[Teddyboy]

Keeping up with a local?
I once got Hassan or Hussein (I can never tell them apart now, although I could then) from the Egyptian "Cornar", Chez Omar's, to take me for something in the Egyptian souk. I was surprised that I struggled to keep up with him, even though he was walking more slowly! I eventually figured it out after I had the same problem with another couple of locals. It's all about energy saving to better cope with the heat. They lengthen their steps, not by much, but it's enough to leave the likes of me trailing in the dust!
Mind, they were two rascals. Even so, for quite some time I used to get them to make us a batch of kofta to eat at home, it was very nice.
Sitting on the Emilio balcony in the evening was a delight. Watching Mr Farance's son adjusting new wheel spokes, whilst the old man sat yapping with any and everyone who would pass by.
Trying to keep out of Showcat's way, so that he couldn't insist on us visiting his "Night Club" downstairs.
Or lying on the bed at midnight, starkers, waiting and hoping for the A/C to work again in order to get the temperature down below 100 degrees.
Happy, long-gone days!

[HEPZIBAH]

Oh yes! I'd forgotten the bike shop opposite.
I also enjoyed looking in the window opposite -slightly depended on what floor I was on - and looking in on a couple of young goldsmiths. I couldn't see what they were making, but I used to imagine all sorts of designs, probably being prepared for bridal wear or dowry.

[A-Four]

I really do remember this area so well, the moment a tourist left this hotel you entered into the full life of Upper Egypt, no matter which route one would take, each would be truly remarkabe .Years ago I would have a coffee on the outside of that hotel served by a quite old gentleman, always dressed in a hotel style. I once informed him of life there long ago when he was young, he was quite impressed, in truth I was telling him of my grand fathers time there, as he had told me. I have not stayed at this hotel, but I can say which ever road you would take from it would lead you on a magical journey. The old gentleman who had the bicycle shop lived above it with his family, and one of his sons had a taxi, often parked very near the Emillio.

It's some years ago now, but when the authorities closed the road that lead to the ferry, the local council approved a foot bridge in a valencian style over the Avenue of sphinx, to link with the Etap shopping bazaars, but unfortunately central government stopped this idea. The policy from what I understand was that the tourists would not want to enter the area to the east of the city, in other words the open air museum would not be part of the eastern side of the Avenue of Sphinx, though many on here would not realise this split the Coptic community in half and would have to suffer quite a distance to see friends and family, let alone schools and church.